One of the best things about
travel is actually seeing sights that you have only heard about before. I
remember my first trip to Europe in the late 80’s when I saw the Eiffel Tower
and the Tower Bridge in person for the first time. Standing there with Julie,
it was a little hard to believe that I was actually there, in person, seeing
them. And that’s how travel memories are
created.
Our memory banks have grown
as we have visited more countries and seen more things. I have added mental images of ancient ruins that
I had only seen in school textbooks growing up.
Ruins such as the Colosseum in Rome, the empty streets of Pompeii, the Greek
ruins of Ephesus, and Antalya Colosseum where Peter addressed the Corinthians.
Our memories also include non-European
sites like the Mayan ruins of the Yucatan (Tulum, Coba, and Chichén Itzá),
Machu Pichu, and Angkor Wat. Now we have
added Borobudur Temple in
Central Java. This is a place that we had
never read about in school or even knew about until our good friend Fred
mentioned it as we were moving to Singapore.
It’s about a 2-hour flight
from Singapore to Yogyakarta, the closest airport to Borobudur. We were met by our driver arranged by the hotel
(something we have learned to coordinate in advance) and had a 75-minute drive
to the hotel. At one point the driver told
us as we crossed a bridge over a dry riverbed that the riverbed was a result of
a volcanic eruption of Mount Merapi in 2010.
I guess we were in The Ring of Fire that I was always reading about.
Julie found a wonderful
little hotel, the Rumah
Dharma. Very highly rated in Trip Advisor,
it was not our typical place. Nine rooms
(each an individual “villa” consisting of a room and bath) and it was
wonderful. Set among rice paddies a
short bike ride out of town, the staff, the rooms, the location, and the price
were great. It was about $60 USD per
night per room, including breakfast (and free bicycles to ride around on). A great place to stay.
We found out how great the
next morning as we met a hotel staff member the next morning at 4:15 am to ride
bikes to the temple (if that sounds early it was, but also I don’t think that
we would have slept a whole lot later as a Call to Prayer started about that
time from the 4 mosques around us). It
was about a 15-minute ride down dark roads and streets.
Our hotel guy took care of buying the temple tickets and we headed off up the steps of the temple to the top. Getting there in the predawn light we realized it would probably be best if we went down a level or two—fewer people and a better view for sunrise. And what a sunrise it was. There is no way my words can describe what we say, and pictures don’t do it justice—but it’s the best we can do.
Our hotel guy took care of buying the temple tickets and we headed off up the steps of the temple to the top. Getting there in the predawn light we realized it would probably be best if we went down a level or two—fewer people and a better view for sunrise. And what a sunrise it was. There is no way my words can describe what we say, and pictures don’t do it justice—but it’s the best we can do.
After
spending a couple of memorable hours we enjoyed a breakfast at the hotel (included
in the admission price) and headed back to Rumah Dharma on out bikes. While the daylight made seeing a little
bit easier, the morning traffic definitely raised the level of difficulty. Luckily the majority of the traffic was
comprised of motorcycles and scooters instead of trucks and cars. It still required coordination and timing to
make some of the street crossings at intersections and we were very relieved to
make the left hand turn off the main road and onto the little road to the
hotel.
Back
at the hotel we had a lazy day after our second breakfast (hey, it was included
in the price) . We hung out by the pool
and took a couple of bike rides around the village. For lunch we rode about 10 minutes to Pasta
Gio, a typical open air restaurant that served pasta and pizza. The food and service were good and it was
only about $10 USD total for the three of us.
Our
burning question was “what are we going to do tomorrow?”. Watching the sun set over the nearby rice paddies
our question was answered as a small parade of brightly colored Volkswagen
Things (known as 181s to everyone outside the US) went by. These jeep-like convertibles looked like a
fun way to explore the surrounding area.
So, I started looking on Google and could only find sites that were in
Indonesian. With a little help from
Google Translate and a lot of help form hotel staff we were set for a 3.5-hour
adventure the next day.
Our car and driver showed up the next afternoon and gave us some ideas of places he could take us. They sounded good and we asked “can we also go to the Chicken Church?”. He looked at us and said “you know about the Chicken Church?” a little incredulously. And yes, we did. I think it was Patrick that first pointed it out to us on Atlas Obscura. I will let you read the link for details, but it was designed to look like a dove, but instead looks like a giant chicken.
Driving
at slow speeds in the VW with the windshield down was a great way to see
things. We turned off the main highway
and headed down a paved road into the jungle.
After a coupe of miles we pulled into a parking lot, bought out tickets
and climbed in to the back of a 4WD truck for the short, yet steep drive to the
church at the top of the hill.
Entering
the basement level, we wandered around what looked like monk cells. We headed upstairs to the main “church” and
then kept climbing to the top of the chicken’s head for a great view, including
being able to see our hotel and surrounding rice paddies and tobacco
fields. Afterwards we drove through several
small villages, stopped at one to see a ceramics studio, then headed back to
out hotel. All of this was about $40 USD.
The
next morning was another early one and as we got into the car at 4:15 am the
calls to prayer were beginning. Since
there are only a handful of international flights out of Yogyakarta there was
no real line. We were back in Singapore
by 10:30 and home home shortly after that. We left Borobudur with lots of photos and
wonderful memories (some of which are below)
Buddha Awaits the Sun |
And so do the Rest of Us |
Mount Merapi's Silhouette Emerges |
Mount Merapi is Still Active as Her Smoking Summit Shows |
Here Comes the Sun! |
Sunrise Over Stupas |
Inside Each Stupa is a Buddha |
Many Have Had Their Heads Looted Through the Centuries |
As the Sun Rose, the Jungle Mists Emerged -- A Different View, but Just as Beautiful |
Each Level of the Temple has Intricate Wall Carvings |
The Sheer Size of this Temple Built 1,200 Years Ago was Humbling |
Goodbye! |